Cetus 3d Printer Buy

Cetus MKII Extended is a version of Cetus MKII with a bigger Z-axis to play with. The machine consists of a metal frame and was reviewed by numerous users as one of the most reliable and high-quality 3D printers. By default, Cetus MKII Extended is sold with a non-heated bed made of aluminum with a special adhesive.

cetus 3d printer buy

After seeing this video by Marco Reps I have decided to upgrade my printer to include a heated bed. You can purchase an official heated bed for this printer but I want to roll my own more powerful version

The temperature controller can be powered off mains AC or 24V DC. I decided to separate the high voltage mains from the low voltage components via a dividing wall and power the temperature controller off 24V. This design is made so that the whole Cetus 3D printer can safely sit on top of the enclosure which keeps the foot print nice and small.

Note that I initially printed the red lid first using the default Cetus print settings (and then ran out of filament) and the final result was pretty bad. After looking around on the cetus forums it looks like there is a problem with the included slicer when printing without a raft. To solve this I switched over to the excellent Simplify 3D slicer. After a few hours of adjusting the settings I managed to get great results. If your interested you can find a copy of my final settings here.

Cetus 3D, headquartered in Beijing, is dedicated to putting 3D printers into the hands of those who like compact technology combined with a very reasonable print volume of 180 x 180 x 180 mm. We reported on this team of developers and their new 3D printer less than a month ago as they announced they would be offering the machine on Kickstarter soon. Now, the Cetus 3D printer, offering a mix of high minimalism with high quality, has just been launched on the popular crowdfunding site in the hopes of raising $100K for beginning mass production, as well as finishing development and testing of Cetus software.

If you are backing the campaign as a Super Early Bird, you can get in on the low $199 price, which also includes an early shipping date of November 2016 (shipping costs/VAT not included in the backing price). This is the standard version, which is easily upgraded to the extended model (taking you from 180 x 180 x 180 mm to 180 x 300 x 180 mm), offered as an add-on, along with several really cool printables the company has created as great examples of what this little 3D printer can do. If you miss the Super Early Bird, you can still order the printer at $249, receiving 17% off of the regular price, with shipping commencing in December of this year. Prices ascend from there to offer combo packs, discounted according to how early you order.

True-touch auto calibration measure the platform leveling and nozzle height in a single process. The printer is level in form of 9 point matrix and make sure the best dimensional accuracy and first layer adhesion.

Compare to the current version, this hotend will able to use steel nozzles for printing abrasive material and support softer materials. It supports all Cetus printers ( MK1,2,3), just swap out the old hotend to upgrade!

A neat solution by Tinyfab, this CPU converts MKIII into a complete open source 3D printer running Smoothieware firmware. What does that mean? Think of running Windows on Mac. It will gave native support of Gcode and control printer via popluar reprap based softwares like Simplify3D, Slic3R, Cura, Octoprint and more.

In May 2017 I bought a Cetus 3D printer, I'd wanted a 3D printer for a while but didn't want something that I'd spend more time fixing than using. The Cetus seemed to bridge the gap between reasonable value and sensible quality. Over the past year I've printed several useful items (and many useless ones). I've played with a few materials and found which work best for me and the printer (PLA for quick prototyping and PETG for more durable parts). Although I was very happy with the printer I've found a few things I wanted to improve:

- Like everything in my house the printer quickly gets covered in dust, which doesn't really affect the function of the printer but doesn't look very nice and it's a fiddle to clean all the small parts.

I decided the best solution was store the printer in a zero-gravity vacuum chamber, but as I couldn't afford that I instead decided to build a simple enclosure. I researched a few different designs online but couldn't find anything that was quite what I wanted so designed my own. I made engineering drawings to help with making each part and for easy assembly, .stl files for all the 3D printed parts and schematics for the electronic parts. All of these are free to use and can be found at the end of this Instructable.

- Noise reduction - The fan noise is quite annoying during a long print, and on the Cetus 3D printer the fan is always running when the printer is powered on, even when it's not printing. Also all the beeps are very loud, although I printed one of these www.thingiverse.com/thing:31957 which helps with that.

- Not be expensive - I didn't exactly set a budget for the project, and I had some of the materials already, but if it costs many hundreds of pounds I may as well just buy a more expensive printer which is already enclosed.

The first thing I did was I measured the printer and filament holder, I used the axis calibration tools in the Cetus software to move the x, y & z axes fully to get a maximum size envelope, then modelled it in CAD to use as a 'dummy' component. Even though it made the overall dimensions bigger and may make filament changes slightly more fiddly I decided to have the filament inside to keep it dust-free as well, many 3D printer enclosures only enclose the printer and not the filament. I decided to design the enclosure so that it can be easily lifted off the printer for maintenance if needed, so the panels of the enclosure must be rigid enough without a base panel.

I wanted to make something a bit more interesting than just a simple box with a door on the front so I searched online for ideas. I came across this -printer-enclosure...series of posts and liked the overall shape of the enclosure with the angled front. I thought it would be useful for the acrylic door to open upwards and out of the way, and I remembered something I'd seen several years ago on www.woodgears.ca (one of my favourite websites, please take a look, especially if you're interested in woodworking) This clever mechanism _holders/toolchest.html allows the front half of the box to flip up and over to sit on top of the back half of the box. I tried drawing this out but couldn't get the geometry to work for the size of box I wanted and I didn't know how I'd make the thin wire hinge pieces rigid enough. I ended up designing a hinged lid that works in a similar way using bolts and threaded bars and will lift up and balance on the back half of the enclosure. I had to make one of the hinge arms curved to clear the other parts and added two thinner pieces on the outside of the main hinge for support. I think this resulted in an interesting looking door mechanism which is hopefully practical.

All of the parts can be printed without supports if oriented correctly but I did print a raft. It seems Cetus 3D printers cannot reliably print the first layer without a raft but I don't mind too much. I'd rather waste a few minutes printing a raft than waste several hours printing a part that failed with poor bed adhesion. In total the parts used almost 300g of filament.

One such tinkerer, [Marco Reps], has been taking his new Cetus 3D printer to new places, and his latest video offers a trio of tips to enhance the user experience of this bare-bones but capable printer. First tip: adding a heated bed. While the company offers a heated aluminum bed for ABS and PETG printing at a very reasonable price, [Marco] rolled his own. He bolted some power resistors to the aluminum platen, built a simple controller, and used the oversized stock power supply to run everything.

What I really liked about this video was the image analysis-based time lapse. Yes, triggering on the G-code makes sense for printers and CNC machines, but the Open CV approach opens up the possibility of smooth time lapse sequences on other non-CNC processes.

Fabbaloo: For such an inexpensive 3D printer, there are some interesting capabilities, like the ability to print layers as small as 0.05mm and a fairly large build volume of 180 x 180 x 180mm. What market are you targeting this machine for with these features?

Jason Wu: We are positioning this machine as a prosumer 3D printer with an entry-level price. Cetus is almost a plug and play device, first-time 3D printer users just need to fasten a few screws before it is ready to print. The machine is calibrated in factory so there is no need for the user to do so. We provide straightforward software with optimized printing parameters so a beginner does not need to know all the printing parameters before getting started.

Jason Wu: The printer use high quality linear rails on all 3 axes; our baseline is to use HIWIN or better rails. The body is full metal and therefore very rigid. This results in excellent print accuracy and makes the printer very quiet as well.

Thanks to the open design of the printer, all 3 axes could be extended. We think that some people may want to have bigger print volumes, and the easiest axis to extend is the Z-axis, therefore we made a taller version. We may also provide x-axis extension upgrade in the future.

Fabbaloo: The Cetus 3D printer does not include a heated print surface, so how do prints adhere to the print bed during operations? What method of adhesion is used? What materials are possible to print?

Jason Wu: We reached the goal of 100,000 on Kickstarter already. A lot of people are quite excited about the printer. We are sending a prototype printer to external testers for evaluation, and so far most of them give very positive feedbacks about the printer. 041b061a72